Router Table Basics

Bolt a router upside down in a table and the combination becomes a working router table. It lets you slide wood over the spinning bit instead of pushing the tool over a stationary piece of wood with your hands. Safety and effectiveness are what router tables are all about, but there’s a little more involved here than meets the eye.

Router bit bearings often leave groove-shaped depressions in wood, while using a fence eliminates this problem by supporting boards more fully as they’re milled. Another reason to use a fence is safety. By enclosing most of the bit, a fence makes it easier to keep your fingers out of harm’s way. Then there’s dust. Good router table fences include a shroud that allows effective vacuum collection of dust and shavings.

Do your router bits sometimes leave a burned profile behind? It’s a common problem, especially on hardwoods, and surprisingly difficult to sand off, though there’s a simple solution.
Rout all but 1/32” of wood in the usual way, then raise the router bit that last little bit for the final pass. Taking a shallow final cut like this greatly reduces friction and heat build up. Keep your wood moving past the bit at a good clip and it’ll never burn.
Ideally your router table should operate as a team player, and table height is a big part of this. Modify your router table so it’s the same height as your tablesaw and both machines function as outfeed tables for each other. Add four lockable casters to the router table, and you’ll know first-hand why they’re here to stay.
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